Unboxing and Assembly of the Magnum Pilot Mid Drive Electric Bike | Epic Cycles
Welcome to Epic Cycles my name is Paul today we’re going to do another unboxing video of a brand new bike called the Magnum Pilot This bike is going to be a mid mid motor bike and a step through design it’s going to come in three different color colors we’re going to have it in Black we’re going to have it in blue and red and now we’re going to unbox this one
We’re going to build this and take you through the steps of building it and show you all the little goodies that it has the first part got the box open bikes in the Box nicely packaged all protected and the first part we’re just going to cut off all the stuff so I’m
Just going to start taking the zip ties off really Quick There’s our wheel this bike’s going to have a 12 mm or 10 mm sorry 12 mm through axle on it Nice seel bearing hub through axle design large rotor and I really like the white wall tires I think that sets off everything really nice and still taking all the stuff Off one thing you’ll like like about this new bike especially with the cable rooting they did a nice job tethering all the cables to one side it’s going to make for a very nice neat clean look on the front of the Bike it’s looking like a bike already again nicely wrapped going to take the cover off of that there we go stainless steel mounts adjustable stays and there’s our Bridge clip put that Aside sure wanted to be careful about protecting this bike that’s a good job And there it is and now that it’s unwrapped we’re going to start getting ready to build it so here you can see all cleaned up up all the packaging off looking really nice beautiful bright finish on it batter is going to be hidden underneath
The the frame in here when I get to the key later we’ll disconnect that and show you how that comes apart mid Drive motor down below 10-speed drivetrain using a microshift drivetrain it has a clutch on it as well the clutch is going to stop or resist chain slap
Which is a nice function on there as well again 10 speeds to climb through lots of lots of uh hill climbing ability and of course top top gear as well you’re going to have uh it’s going to be a torque sensor so in all gears you’re going to have a useful actual functional
Type drive on it very fluid very responsive you’re really going to like the way this works it’s super smooth so first thing I’m going to do I’m just going to start building up some of the parts on it I’m going to start with the head tube up here putting the bar
On so first thing I’m going to grab just going to grab grab myself a 5mm Allen key going to take the headset cap off this part won’t be necessary the floor Fork is on the floor I didn’t want to raise the bike off cuz I didn’t want the
Fork to fall out of the frame so we’re just going to take this cap off this little spacer we won’t be needing either and we’ll be ready to put the bar on in a moment inside the star nut like most of my videos I always put a little bit
Of grease on any fitting that I put on and now we’re going to start setting the bars you’ll see that the cables are nicely rooted and you may just want to make sure that there’s no twist to it so take a look to make sure that the cables have
A smooth rooting if they’re Twisted they’re going to sort of look like this and he almost that seems to almost pass and is it actually untwisted that’s actually not bad I kind of prefer that sort of setup so very very easy to make that look nice
And clean we’re going to press the stem over over it inside of the stem is where our anchor bolt is it’s going to go down into that star nut so I’m just going to put this over the stem or over the steer column actually this part is called the stem
Actually and we’re just going to wiggle that down a bit it may not go all the way down right away it’s okay we’re not worried about full installation until we start tightening the screw lifting the quick release this allows you to adjust your handlebar and the levelness of the
Bar too what I’m going to do is I’m going to drop it down to get access to the stem bolt here and we’re going to leave that lever flipped up so that it doesn’t cover the bolt now again we’re going to go to a 5mm Allen key I want
Something that’s going to be deep enough to go inside so I happen to have an allen key with a long shaft on it just going to drop that down inside of there and start drawing down this stem bolt now this is an adjustment it’s not necessarily A tightening so you can see
I’m just using two fingers to draw it down I’m going to feel some resistance here and that’s pretty much it I don’t want to crank this tight because I want the headset to turn smoothly and we may even adjust that one more time when the bike is finished we’re just going to
Call this a preset now I can set the bar up to where I might like it which you can adjust later on as well so I’m going to put it up at about a 45° angle put the bars at a nice neutral position where the bars are sort of flat at the top Brake levers you may adjust later I kind of like the way this came out of the box the levers are at a nice angle I’m going to clamp this down now this is also adjustable so even though I’ve clamped it and it’s adjustable by hand you may need a bit of
A tool to sort of make it tight so I’m going to loosen this again I want this clamping action to be a little bit tighter so behind here on this shaft there’s a again a 5 m mm Allen key and I’m going to put some tension on that
I’m going to test the lever and I want to feel resistance kind of like you’re feeling here and then we push it down that’s going to give a a stronger Bond or binding action on that just going to move the display up for a moment there’s our headlight very
Powerful light front reflector down below it which is also on a pivot so I’m just going to aim that all forward for now and that’s it for now first thing I’m going to put on is the fender we’re going to put the fender on first before the front wheel because the
Front wheel is going to be in the way of the fender if we do that later so don’t be in too much of a hurry to make it look entirely like a bike yet so we’re going to get this guy on again looks like the 5mm Allen key is
Going to be the favorite today so on the back of the arch of the fork you’ll have your Bridge mount for the fender and I’m just going to remove this screw you probably notice that I got the bike balanced on its own Fork so just be cautious as you’re working with it you
Don’t want to knock it over and have it fall somewhere I like to put the tab behind the fork I think there’s really only one choice in this case but sometimes you do have an option put that into this screw hole I don’t find it any any any necessity to
Put uh grease in this one but if you wanted to it wouldn’t harm it so I’m just tensioning this down and before I tension it I’m going to lift this up cuz I want the more clearance for the wheel then you probably hear the Allen key touching the
Fender just snug that up and there we go go that’s one part in and then down below here for the for the fender stays we got our mounts on the forks and this is going to be using on the back side an 8 mm nut which
I’m going to hold down with an 8 mm wrench and in this case a 4 mm Allen key to undo the bolt so holding the nut and turning the bolt we’re going to undo one side as I’m doing this try to save all the Parts keep everything neat I’m going
To put this one on the brake side pretty much as far down as I can get it without it hitting the sort of feeling like it’s spreading open not talking about the plastic piece here I’m going to try it on this one just to See you know what and that’s going to do two things one hold the stay and two allow you to tension it down so it’s snug to the fork so holding the nut turning the bolt put some tension on it and that’s nice not rotating on the fork perfect not every bike build works
Out exactly like this I often will put this on the outside but with the size of the bolt that they offer was a little bit tight to get that extra bit of thread that I would have liked otherwise and the same thing on the other side just going to do the opposite
Remove that bolt holding the Nut and nuts off take the washer off put the stay between you’ll see there might be a bit of a Twist to this you can rotate it so that it fits into that Gap a little straighter and the one thing I wanted to do I want it to be the same height as
This as the one that I first installed so two things just before I snug these bolts down or this bolt down I’m going to do an eyeball measurement I’m going to use this Allen key and it’s right at the tip there so I’m going to put this on this
Side just detail that I like to see everything being symmetrical it also make a difference on having the fender not look crooked or be twisted as long as these are both at the same level make for a neater job all right Fender mounted now we’re going to take
The front axle out I’m going to mount the front wheel front axle is mounted with a 6 mm Allen key so there’s our six I’m just going to spin that out it’s using a through axle that’s going to be threaded into the that side of the fork there the left side of the
Fork blade and it just passes all the way through we’ll take that off and again I like to put a little bit of grease on on the axle I’m just going to put it not on the threads just a little bit on the actual shaft and when
I push that through the wheel and through the fork it’ll add a little tiny bit of lubric and keep everything running smoothly and moving smoothly over here we got our wheel one thing I just noticed there’s two spacers that are on the on that come with the wheel one’s on the outside and
It’s just like a for the through shaft to keep the the the wheel spaced and I noticed that this one was missing and I thought uhoh we lost it well it turned out it was attached to the packaging so if you find yours is missing chances are
It’s stuck on here or it may have fallen into the bottom of the Box most likely it’ll be on here if it’s attached so I’m just going to pluck that off and that’s the little piece that we were looking for and this just fits on the outside of the axle very simple
Installed very important that you have it though all right so now we’re going to try again like I said we’re going to mount the wheel I’m just going to push that axle over before I can mount the wheel on the inside of your for of your brake there’s a little safety spacer so
This little plastic piece is to keep the brake pads from being pumped out by accidentally pumping the lever and then closing up the brake or possibly even pumping the Piston out and having your brake leak or bleed itself out so we remove that you may want to keep this
This can be handy in the future for doing service or you can push this back in so now we’re going to mount the the front wheel rotor goes into the caliper so here here we go I’m just going to lift up the front end I’m going to roll this guy in into the Caliper and we’re just going to approximate the spacing now some of you might find this a little bit tricky and I am finding it tricky too that there we go and we don’t want the bike to fall down so I’m pushing the axle through and I hear another click this is where it’s
Touching the thread now I’m going to take my 6 mm Allen key I’m going to put it inside the hole here to tighten this down and while by pushing in board there we go it’s turning In and it’ll get snug and again not a ton of force as necessary I’m just going to tighten that down and she’s good to go so front wheel is now Attached I’m going to go go ahead and put it on the kickstand to save me have having an extra hand and now this bike is very very close to being finished now the bars of course are loose so I’m going to go to my one of my favorite tools three-way Allen key has
Four five and 6 mimet Allen keys on it again we’re going to go to the four or now we’re going to go to the four here’s our two pinch bolts that keep the bars from turning so the first one that we tighten adjust the headset adjust not tighten remember that
And you can test that and I’m going to show you how we’re going to check for the play to make sure our headset’s properly adjusted but first i’m going to tighten the bar to the steer Column turning these down just a bit with your uh with your own judgment you’re going to line up the stem to the front wheel so it’s aiming forward cuz you don’t want the bars looking like that that wouldn’t be fun to ride so we get it straight and couple of gentle tops that’s
Approximately straight I’m liking that now I’m going to Snug this down do both bolts in the same tension and you’ll see by the effort I’m using one hand I’m not cranking these down like they’re axle nut bolts or pedal bolts and that feels tight and that’s good now the other thing I mentioned
Checking the headset adjustment and this is where we just squeeze the front brake and we’re going to rock it back and forth and that’s exactly what I didn’t want see that motion and you can hear a knock and a click so essentially this headset isn’t properly adjusted yet
That’s an easy adjustment so we’re going to open this cap up and I’m going to go back to my uh 5mm Allen key I’m going to keep my 4 mm handy so what I want to do I’m going to open this up going to drop this down so I can get access to the the bolt that’s on the starnut on the top of the steer column and what I
Want to do is adjust this down turning it clockwise before I can do that I’ve got to loosen the stem again CU I’ve clamped it to the steer column so it was not going to move very well or at all as long as this is tight so I’m going to
Turn that off by a turn on each screw then as you can see I’m just turning this down not tightening I’m feeling a bit of resistance at my fingertips again we can test I’m going to squeeze the front brake and it’s almost there I’m putting my
Fingers here on at the headset in the frame you can actually feel a tiny bit of motion if you can’t see it or hear it and just that little feeling of the headset moving around means that I can add some more tension to this put a tiny bit More and I like that and it’s rotating smoothly now before I finish I’m going to aim the wheel forward to the stem maybe take this out so I can get a better judgment I’m going to clamp this stem back down again and you may have to go back to
This one more time luckily these adjustments are quick and easy so I’m just setting up the bar clicking that aiming it Forward once Again so the stem is in line with the Wheel and then you give it a snugging again go it’s tension here and here and before I give it the final tension I’m going to check that headset for adjustment one more time front brake on rocking it back and forth feeling for any play there isn’t any you may notice
A tiny bit of play or Flex that’s normal in the fork the fork has bushings as the fork moves up and down it’s got to pass through some some bushings or bearings and that little tiny play happens to exist on this type of a fork not an uncommon thing don’t let it worry
You all right I feel good about this headset’s adjusted bars are aiming forward and just so that I don’t forget later I am going to Snug this down for safety reason we don’t want this bar turning without the fork turning with It there we go there we go okay bars are tight this is getting real quick now one thing I always do when I set up a a bike with a new seat post I’m going to grease the seat post into the frame or Grease the frame
For the SE post that just keeps this allows the post to move smoothly this doesn’t have a steel frame we’re not worried about rust in here but corrosion does happen even on aluminum so a little bit of grease inside and one little tip I also do we
Got our quick release here and it runs on a cam and in this cam is a little tiny bushing or a little brass bearing of some kind just behind it I’m going to put a little tiny bit of Grease move it through it that makes this quick release
Clos smoother with less effort and also giving you more power or more clamping power on this on the quick release I’m just going to put this seat back in again in I’m going to adjust the quick release so that I got resistance at about 90 give it a Squeeze and now our seat post is tight in this case the seats level already from the factory that’s nice job and because the factory installed it we just want to make sure that it’s properly tightened I wouldn’t want the seat post starting to move around on us underneath
Here is a 6 mm Allen key that’s underneath beneath the seat post clamp and I’m just going to put some tension on it from the factory this was reasonable as a matter of fact I only gave it less than a quarter turn that was good liking
It and one of the final things as we approach to the build we’re going to put pedals on pedals will come in this package here they gave us alloy pedals with 9/16 in Threads pedals are left and right just like your shoes and more so than that they are specifically threaded left and
Right so and going back to what I said before we always grease everything so we’re going to grease these petals threads but if you’re not sure which is left or right sometimes they’re stamped here we’ll see a WL and a w r so the L is for left R is for right
I’m putting a tiny bit of grease on and again you don’t have to bathe it just enough on there so that the threads won’t seize up in the future using a a pedal wrench you can use a 15 mm combination wrench or a 9/16 combination wrench please try to avoid
Using sa tools as you may have sa Allen Keys which cause a lot of damage to the Allen remember use metric tools only so here’s a proper pedal wrench I’m going to install the pedals the one that says WL is going to go on the left side left
Side pedal is also a left-handed thread so counterclockwise to tighten so you probably heard the old term righty tighty lefty Loosey well here we’re going to turn this to the left turning it clockwise you can turn this forever it’s never going to go on but turning it counterclockwise will allow us to start
The thread and and I’m just going to spin this down a little bit you get a little bit of action there and then finally we’re going to tighten it down with a pedal wrench these you can tighten down pretty much with about as much force as you can
Put through a normal wrench pedal wrenches happen to be really long so you can get extra leverage out of it and now that I’m almost tight you see I’m put some effort into that all right last p p on now we’re going to go to the right side right side pedal right hand
Thread so every screw that you’ve ever installed probably just like that so clockwise or turning to the right I’m going to start priming it up I’m just going to spin her down a little bit then I’m going to get our wrench on here and of course I’m pedaling in the
Same direction as the bike wants to Pedal so putting some weight on the seat so the wheel doesn’t spin oh there’s the wheel spinning let’s try stopping the Wheel from spinning there we go pedals are on all right we’re getting very close to build to the final build on this thing
So Forks are on front fender is on handlebars are on bikes aim forward and seat post is in pedals are in final check we can do is checking the gears in the case of this gear adjustments is something we not I normally don’t cover in a in a in
A bike build video but one thing I do want to check is is something called overshift so it’s the bike came in from the factory in low gear so I’m going to shift the shifter making sure it’s in low and if I’m not sure clicking it back
Will take you to the higher gear and you’ll see the derailer was moving away I’m just going to go back to the last shift which is low and what I meant by overshift is checking to see if I push the derailer by hand there’s a normal flex and there’s the adjustment of it
Too and I can see that the derailer is trying to do a little bit of overshift overshift is where if you go into first gear and let’s say you aggressively shift you might throw the chain right over the first gear in between the spokes and sometimes the derailer gets
Caught on the spokes and will break off usually doesn’t happen on a new bike but that’s a reason why you want to tune and keep your gear systems operating especially after your bike has been dropped should the derailer be bent you might end up with an overshift or the
Loss of certain gears and of course inaccurate shifting overall and we’ve got two three screws one is a tensioning screw which allows the derailer to be pushed backwards in this direction I’m happy with that screw being set that way and this will be the upper and lower adjustment screws to stop the derailer
From going over the first gear or past the high gear turn this screw down in this case it’s not the one that I wanted there we go that’s the one so just with an adjustment there it is touching the plate and I’m just going to go back
About a about a third of a turn or a quarter turn and making sure that that’s adjust properly this is kind of a preset just to make sure it doesn’t shift past and for those who are interested I’m going to go through the gears somewhat um bear with me on the awkwardness of
This CU I don’t have it in a stand where I can pedal it through everything so I’m just going to Pedal backwards and forward while shifting and I’ll show you how I do that so just going to Pedal it back going to click one gear and I want
To see one gear at the back end and looking down at it we’re ining gear number two I’m going to Pedal back again to the kickstand click down to three there’s three four 4 5 6 7 8 9 and finally 10 so we’re in 10th gear and again that overshift test that
I did before we’re going to do it once again so I want to see if the derailer can be pulled further away easily and as I can see it’s locked and and if you’re looking straight from behind you’re going to see the chain is in the tenth
Cog and the jockey wheel up up right here which does most of the shifting work is directly below that and The Idler Wheel is down here just to pick up the chain tension one little function I mentioned I was talking about the clutch on the side of this derailer there’s our clutch
Adjustment so we have an on or off and if I pull quickly and abruptly on the Chain you’ll see that the the the ring in here is moving like it is right now now when I go to put it into the clutch on and you’ll see there’s a difference that’s
Softer and that’s tenser what that’s going to do is it’s just going to stop the chain from slapping around kind of a nice touch with this massively extended gear ratio on the back there’s a lot of extra chains slack it had to be picked up somewhere and controlled and that
Long cage on there and the clutch mechanism will keep that from making all kinds of odd noises possibly tossing and throwing your chain and keeping your bike running a lot smoother so I’m going to leave it with the clutch on I kind of like that function I think everybody will
Too so the gears are good brakes we trusted that the factory got it right and usually they do I’m just going to lift up the front wheel and spin the wheel making sure it spins smoothly and normally if the brake was rubbing it would just automatically or not
Automatically it would just slow down and stop in this case it’s rolling very smoothly the only way it’s going to stop is if I should grab the lever rear brake is good front brake we’re going to check the same thing I’m just going to lift up the front wheel
Give it a spin I’m not hearing any scrubbing sound or disc brake rubbing so we know that that’s good if that adjustment was required there are videos that we would have or we have and you can find videos out there on how to center the brake rotor
To the caliper we won’t go into that because that’s a that’s more of a tuneup thing so this bike is almost ready to go you get two keys little identification tag giving you a number of the key and you’ll see here scan this QR code for your manual so your manual will be
Online so this little tag here will get you that get you to that site so first thing I’m going to do is I want to take the battery out and also turn this display on I’m just going to take one of these keys out of here so that I can take the
Battery out and show you that part too there’s our key battery ports ho uh Keyhole is right here so this is the only need for this key is just to undo the battery you’ll put the key in you’ll turn it this unlocks the battery casing there’s a
Little quick release lever here I’m just going to pull down on it you’ll see the battery pivots away and just so it doesn’t fall I’m going to support it from the bottom and here’s our battery and in this case what do we got here for a battery 15 amp hour by 48
Volt nice robust battery beautiful casing color matched as well so as we were looking at the battery we got the tangs on the bottom where it mounts to the to the connector here on the top of our battery we’ve got a little battery meter and you press that button it’s
Going to light up showing you the condition of the battery in this case it’s fully charged also that quick release acts kind of like a handle so you can carry this battery around when it’s off the bike put the handle down we’re going to mount the battery by putting the bottom end in
First and there we go bottom end first so it just sort of pivots and then that’s it she’s locked in nice and secure nice and nice and Sleek looks like there’s no battery at all on the bike very well hidden very well sort of designed for aesthetic reasons
Okay and for real in in reality this batter this bike is pretty much done I will be pumping the tires later but we won’t bother doing that at this point batteries sorry batteries tires are going to be rated um from I think 24 PSI
Up to 40 I’m I put about 36 PSI in there to make them nice and firm and now we’re going to go to the display so here’s our display here’s our selector switch here’s our throttle on the selector we’ll have a couple of buttons one’s called the mode there will be an up
Button and a down button to take you through different functions within the modes and the almighty power button which we’re going to turn on now so I’m going to hit the power button and that’s going to start up the display our display is going to light up
It’s going to show us all the details battery status it will have the pedal assist mode the speed that you’ll be doing uh the power the power meter on the side showing you what wattage both as a as a bar graph and as a numerical
Uh graph as well you got our clock and our odometer there and the one thing I’m just going to do the most important thing for most people who are going to be buying this bike do you want to get going you want to know what speed you’re doing there’s many functions that this
This display can do but the one you’re going to want to set for sure is going to be your speed from either miles an hour to kilm an hour in order to do that we’re going to turn the display off for a moment then I’m going to turn it on
While it’s booting up I’m going to hold the mode button you’re going to see something called Unit come up if I hit the mode button upward whoops back up I didn’t want to go up or down we’re going to hit the mode button while it’s in
Unit you’ll see that miles an hour will be flashing if I should hit the down or up button it’ll go to kilm an hour I’m going to push and hold the mode button to lock it in now she’s in there and that’s all we’re going to do for this
The display has more functions that it can do things like backlight and so on we’re not going to get into those details today so this concludes the pilot bike build on this model of bike I hope everybody’s enjoyed this video if you like if you do
Please do a like and and and share and pass the word along to your friends we’d love to see you and definitely got to try this bike I’m very impressed with It
Join Paul from Epic Cycles in this exciting video as he unboxes the highly anticipated Magnum Pilot Mid Drive Electric Bike in all three stunning colors. Get a firsthand look at the sleek design and innovative features of this e-bike, and follow along as Paul provides a quick and informative overview.
In addition to the unboxing, Paul will guide you through the step-by-step assembly process, ensuring that you can easily put together your Magnum Pilot Mid Drive Electric Bike with confidence. Whether you’re a seasoned cyclist or new to the world of electric bikes, these assembly instructions are designed to be straightforward and accessible.
Discover the power, style, and convenience of the Magnum Pilot Mid Drive Electric Bike with Epic Cycles. Don’t miss out on this comprehensive unboxing and assembly experience – hit play now and start your journey with the Magnum Pilot!
To learn more or purchase this beautiful new bike model please check this product link here: https://epiccycles.ca/product/e-bike-categories/city-commuter/magnum-pilot-mid-drive/
